Scottadita del Limbara, lamb chops with vegetables.
The name is kind of a mouthful, but don’t worry if you’re Italian pronunciations aren’t on par with that of the smooth-talking servers. Zio Cecio Cucina Italiana is comfortable and down-to-earth. Oh, and the food is amazing.
This is chef Francesco Farris’ latest venture, getting back to his own Sardinian roots. Located on the charming strip of West Lovers Lane, the space is small and intimate with low lighting. Farris wants it to feel like you’re dining in his home. His stunning, vintage family photographs line the walls, and there’s an open kitchen where most of the action happens.
During a low-key media dinner, I got to try several of Farris’ favorite dishes on the menu, which includes the Di Mare salad with fresh seafood steamed in a seaweed medley. You’ll find squid and octopus in many items such as the Neri Alle Vongole, a squid ink infused spaghetti with fresh clams.
But if you’re just looking for a good plate of regular old spaghetti with red sauce and meat, Zio has that, too – the Spaghetti dei 150 Anni with organic tomatoes and homegrown basil sauce.
My favorite dish of all? Scottadita Del Limbara – tenderized lamb chops with thyme crust and red Cannonau wine reduction. The meat falls off the bone. It’s served with a vegetable medley – the best side of veggies I’ve ever had. They’re crisp and flavorful. I asked how they cooked them, and the server said “olive oil, salt and pepper, a few herbs …” That’s it.
For Italian food, Zio is moderately priced with most pasta entrees around $15. Other items like the lamb and seafood will cost you a bit more. Wine by the glass is about average at $7-$13. Grab a seat by the east window for a lovely view of the greenhouse next door.
