Sometimes we all long to get out of the city. Get to a smaller place, where you can see one end of town from the other. And possibly eat somewhere that doesn’t have seating capacity for the entire population of Guam. Then again, how could we ever leave our world-class restaurants? Could we survive lonely days without a plethora of pestos and surplus of sauces available just a few minutes away?

Well, maybe we don’t have to. At Suze, here in our neighborhood, we have a gem of a place that manages to combine the creative offerings of a nationally recognized chef with the relaxed surroundings of a cozy neighborhood spot.

The menu offers an interesting variety of international flavors, regional dishes and culinary classics. Chef and co-owner Gilbert Garza is there every night, running things in the back, while his wife Lisa takes care of the front.

The Garzas live just a few minutes from the restaurant, and yes, it really is mostly their neighbors who eat there.

Garza says, “There’s never a night that I don’t know at least one person eating with us.”

If you’re in the mood for something even smaller, say your own kitchen, you can sample one of Garza’s creations by trying this recipe. The Pappardelle Bolognese is becoming one of his most popular dishes, especially since it was featured on the cover of Bon Appetit a couple of months ago.

SUZE

4345 W. Northwest Highway

214-350-6135

Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30 p.m.

$$-$$$, WB, RR

PAPPARDELLE BOLOGNESE (Makes 4 to 8 servings)

¼ cup olive oil

2 slices thick-cut bacon, diced

1 cup chopped onion

½ cup chopped celery

½ cup chopped carrot

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme

1 pound ground veal

1 pound ground pork

1 cup dry red wine

2 bay leaves

2 14-ounce cans beef broth

1 ½ cups canned tomato puree

1 pound pappardelle or mafaldine pasta

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add bacon; sauté until beginning to brown, about 6 minutes. Add onion, celery, carrot, garlic and thyme, and sauté 5 minutes. Add veal and pork, and sauté until brown and cooked through, breaking up meat with back of fork, about 10 minutes. Add wine and bay leaves. Simmer until liquid is slightly reduced, about 10 minutes. Add broth and tomato puree. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer until sauce thickens, stirring often, about 1 hour, 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Boil pasta in large pot of salted water until just tender but still firm to bite, stirring often. Drain. Transfer to pot with sauce; toss. Serve with Parmesan.