Welcome to the fifth annual Advocate rosé column, where our motto is: If it’s summer, and you have $10, you can buy a pretty good rosé — and sometimes even get change back. And those of you who drink white zinfandel or white merlot or whatever, give rosé a try. There’s a decent chance you’ll like it.

                  What do you need to know about rosé? It’s a fruity wine that’s not as heavy as most red wines and even some whites. But it’s not sweet, and its fruit flavors are mostly red berries, as opposed to white fruits or the citrus of most white wines. Rosés should be served chilled, and they pair pretty much with any food, including beef and barbecue — some of them are that dry. A note on vintages: Look for 2006, and be wary if anyone sells anything much earlier than 2005. Rosés are not made to age and should be fresh and flavorful. The color in older vintages starts to fade, like paper that yellows.

Rosé has become quite trendy in some circles, which means some prices have gone up. I’ve had rosés that cost $20 that are quite good, but the joy of rosé is not spending that much money. So consider the following (and yes, Big House Pink is missing this year, since I couldn’t find a current vintage to taste):

• From : Muga ($8), made from tempranillo with a pale red color, is quite dry. Also, Bodegas Borsao Campo de Borja ($9), made with the fruitier grenache grape, but still dry.

• From : Fewer values, but if you can find Reserve St. Martin ($8), buy it. It’s a little more fruit forward than the Spanish wines, but still dry and very food friendly. I drank this with a cold plate and baked beans, and it went quite well. If you want to splurge, try Domaines Ott Chateau De Selle Rose 2005 ($30), which is as elegant as it is expensive.

• From Texas: The standard has become McPherson Cellars ($10), but Flat Creek, Stone House and Texas Hills each produce quality wines in the $10 to $15 range.

— Jeff Siegel

 

Forget everything you know about pizza. It doesn’t need tomato sauce, it doesn’t need to be ordered on the phone, and it isn’t difficult to make. In fact, using one-rise yeast, you can make a stunningly good pizza in less time than it takes for delivery using what’s on hand in the refrigerator. And rosé is the perfect wine.

 

20-minute pizza (Serves 4)

 

For pizza dough:

1 cup lukewarm water

1 package one-rise or rapid-rise yeast

2 ½ cups all-purpose flour

Pinch of sugar

1 teaspoon salt

 

For topping:

3 cups cooked chicken, cooked or raw mushrooms, sliced onions, sliced bell peppers or tomatoes (or literally anything you want, including asparagus or cooked shrimp)

1 cup or more grated cheese (again, any kind you want)

 

1. Preheat oven as high as it goes, usually 500 degrees.

2. Combine dry ingredients in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the dough blade. (You can mix this by hand — it’s just easier in the processor.) Add water and process until dough forms a ball on the blade. If dough is too dry, add a bit more water.

3. Take dough out, form into a ball, and let it rest, covered, for 10 minutes. (This replaces letting the dough rise.) Form into a pizza by flattening with your hands; how flat depends on how thick you like, since the dough will rise while it’s baking. You can use a rolling pin, but the crust won’t be as tender. Transfer dough to a flat baking sheet.

4. Top the pizza, cheese on top. Bake until crust is lightly browned, at least five or six minutes. Slice and serve.