One of the perks — or hazards, depending on your point of view — of wine writing is getting to eat on the steakhouse circuit. This is the time of year when wine makers and winery reps come to town to push the new vintages, and they love to take wine writers to steak houses.
In the past month, I’ve eaten at Nick & Sam’s, Pappas Bros., and Del Frisco’s (each for the first time, by the way). That’s a lot of beef — as well as a lot of potatoes and a lot of really huge shrimp. It’s also a lot green salads to try and keep my digestive system in some kind of balance.
There seemed to be more emphasis on the food at Pappas Bros. and Del Frisco’s than at Nick & Sam’s, where I still can’t shake the feeling that the draw is the weight and price of the cuts of beef. Which is not to say that they weren’t big and pricey at Del Frisco’s; rather, it was the sense that someone in the kitchen was actually concerned that you enjoyed the food for the taste, as well as for the portion size.
The other thing that struck me is that a steak house dinner is not so much about the food as why you’re eating at the steak house. Grilled beef, after all, is pretty much grilled beef. The difference is the occasion or the people you’re eating with or the reason you’re spending $100 a person for dinner. I enjoyed my dinner at Del Frisco’s the most, though the food at Pappas was probably a touch better. But I had dinner at Del Frisco’s with a group that included Bonny Doon wine maker Randall Grahm, who is one of my favorites. He makes not just quality wine, but interesting quality wine, and it was a pleasure to talk to him about what he does and how he does it.
Yes, the food was executed successfully and my beef (only 10 ounces, thankfully) was as medium rare as it should have been. So I have no complaints, especially since I didn’t have to pick up the check. I’d go to Del Frisco’s again, which I wouldn’t necessarily do for Nick & Sam’s.
But would I have as much fun if I was dining with someone else?
