I expected quite a bit from i Fratelli, given the local pizza chain’s fine reputation for quality and value. And there was plenty of value – the $18.95 Trio that I bought included a three-topping, 16-inch pizza, breadsticks, and two small salads. That and a bottle of wine will keep quite a few people busy for dinner.

But the pizza was less than I expected. Maybe the chain is still ironing out the kinks at its new Greenville Avenue location (which delivers to East Dallas, Lake Highlands and parts of Preston Hollow) because the pizza was dry and overcooked and not especially hot when it arrived. That’s usually a sign that things aren’t working quite properly yet.

Does the quantity of the food make up for the quality? That’s the metaphysical question about these sorts of things. I’m pretty fussy about pizza, given my Chicago background and my experience writing about the business. But others might have a different take.

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