I didn’t expect to like the Fortant. Not quite sure why, but had my doubts. Which violated the first rule of wine tasting: Drink the wine before you make up your mind.

In fact, this is a well-made cheap wine that delivers a lot of oomph for the $8 it costs. It has lots of strawberry and a long finish – a splendid example of how to make quality wine and not charge a lot. And yes, it’s a dry wine, despite its name (which may have been the reason I had my concerns). Not surprisingly, Fortant is part of the Robert Skalli family, which has been doing fine work with wine from southern France for 40 years.

Serve this chilled, and sip it on the porch as long as summer is here. And even after summer if you want.

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