The French region of Gascony is most famous for d’Artagnan, the fourth Musketeer; Armagnac, the local brandy; and foie gras. As for wine? Well, it’s the kind of region that only I could love.

The wines are cheap, dry and fruity, low in alcohol, and food friendly, all of which are hardly au courant among the over-oaked, over-priced, and over-alcoholic wines that are most popular these days. Plus, Gascon wines are made with grapes that the Wine Magazines consider insignificant, and the only way a Gascon wine would get a high score is if d’Artagnan held the tip of his sword to the reviewer’s throat.

So bring on the Domaine du Tariquet (about $9 at Whoe Foods), a white blend made with ugni blanc and colombard. It has lots of crisp green apple fruit and even some citrus, and it’s difficult to beat this for a quality sub-$10 wine. It’s in the $10 Hall of Fame, and should be back in 2010.

Serve this chilled, by itself or with almost any kind of summer meal that isn’t red meat. And it’s not bad with Chinese takeout, either.

Click to sign up for the Advocate's weekly news digest and be the first to know what’s happening in Preston Hollow.