The riesling renaissance in the United States is a wonderful thing to see. It means that Americans are becoming more comfortable with their own palates, and that they aren’t embarrassed about drinking wine that isn’t bone dry.

Which is where the Deinhard Classic (about $14, purchased, available at Central Market) enters the picture. Germany’s Deinhard family has been making wine for 200 years, so they probably aren’t surprised to see Americans figure out that riesling can be quite enjoyable. And this wine is enjoyable.

The Classic may well be the best riesling I have ever had at this price. It doesn’t have the wonderful lemon fruit that I like, but there was some of it nonetheless — and the wine had the necessary stoniness and acidity to balance the sweetness and to produce a quality wine. Plus, it has a screwcap. Who says Old World producers can’t be progressive?

Highly recommended, especially for people who want to step up from the Chateau Ste. Michelle riesling that has pretty much fueled the riesling resurgence. Drink this on its own or with spicy Aisan, Cajun or even Tex-Mex.

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