Wine snobs can be so dull. I found the Feudo stuffed in a corner at Jimmy’s (a tip o’ the wine glass to the Italian Wine Guy for pointing it out), and did a little research on CellarTracker before I drank it. The comments made the Feudo sound like bottled water that had been left in the sun.

“A tad boring.” “A summer sipper.” “Quite simple.”

Sigh. They’ll never figure this stuff out, will they? The Feudo ($8, purchased) is not only a $10 Hall of Fame quality wine, but another example of how far and how fast Sicily has come in terms of wine quality. It’s a dry white wine that is clean and fresh, and even a bit rich, with some sort of licorice-flavored peach fruit. The grape — the grillo — used to be used mostly to make marsala, a dessert wine, but increasingly shows up in table wines like this. Does this wine taste like white Burgundy? Nope. But it’s not supposed to, is it?

Highly recommended, and it will pair well with grilled chicken, almost any sort of grilled or boiled seafood, and summer salads.

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