The search goes on for a replacement for Osborne Solaz.

The Volteo ($8, purchased, available at Whole Foods) comes close, and not just because it’s imported by the company that used to bring Solaz into the United States. In this, there are four other Volteo wines — a white, a rose, and two red blends.

It comes close because it is a solid, well-made Spanish wine that is surprisingly Old Word in style. That means it has some, but not much, cherry fruit, tell-tale Spanish acid, and enough oak to balance the wine. Oddly, the Volteo Web site says just the opposite; hopefully, the producer won’t discover its error and start making Spanish wine that tastes like California merlot.

Serve this with lighter red wine food, like barbecue (which is what I drank it with) and things like roast chicken. I’d also open the bottle 15 or 20 minutes before you drink it; it needs that much time to show what it has to offer.

Finally, a word about the label. The back actually has useful information (serving temperature, grape variety, and serving suggestions) and the front has what Volteo calls a  Smart Label: A blue frame appears around the label illustration when the wine is at the correct serving temperature. I don’t know if it works, since I drank the wine too warm. But if someone does get it to work, leave a comment.

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