I mention this not to damn the Brancott with faint praise, because it deserves better than that. Rather, it’s to note (again, sadly) how lazy distributors are and to point out that we shouldn’t force ourselves to stick to some sort of wine drinking schedule. Which even I find myself doing sometimes. Drink what you like, but be willing to try all sorts of things.
The Brancott ($10, purchased, available at Kroger) is a mostly one-dimensional New Zealand sauvignon blanc, but that’s not a bad thing for a grocery store wine at this price — especially since so many others aren’t even that. Right, Monkey Bay? There is grapefruit, and it does dominate, which is to be expected. But it’s not overdone, and there is also some ripe tropical fruit in the middle, just 12 1/2 percent alcohol, and a clean, fresh approach. All in all, a very pleasant surprise.
Drink this chilled on its own, or with grilled vegetables, small plate salads, and even something like hummus. And be glad that I was forced to take a different path.
