A new restaurant in the Pavilion on Lovers Lane drew a negative review from Texas Monthly, but not because of its food.

The magazine’s taco editor, Dallas’ own Jose R. Ralat, dinged Odelay for decor that glorifies gangster cartels. A mural in the restaurant pays tribute to Amado Carrillo Fuentes, who died in 1997 and was known as “El Señor de los Cielos,” or “The Lord of the Skies,” Ralat writes in the review.

The restaurant also features neon reading “plato o plomo?” which translates to “sliver or lead?” It’s a phrase used in Colombia, at least according to the TV show Narcos and Urban Dictionary, offering the choice of taking a bullet or money.

The restaurant’s owner, Julian Barsotti, told the magazine the mural is “badass” and denied that it has to do with cartels, the story states.

“The problematic decor undermines Odelay’s food, which I found to be a delectable example of our homegrown cuisine,” Ralat writes.

Ralat sings the praises of enchiladas with chili gravy, pan-fried tacos with wagyu, and flour tortillas delivered to the table with packets of butter.