It wouldn’t be surprising to find steak, nuts or cheese in a sushi roll around here. But where do you go if you want a more traditional roll? Or a sushi night that won’t break the bank? New American R+D Kitchen, classic Shinsei and a poor man’s Nobu Blue Sushi Sake Grill, several of which made our 2023 Best Japanese/Sushi list, offer expansive sushi menus with prices ranging $8-$22 a roll. We’ve picked three dishes to compare: a signature dish, a shrimp dish and an appetizer.